Ep 2. Growing up bi-cultural in Peru & Provence: A chat with Pauline & Pierre
Welcome to the first interview episode of the Take Me to Provence podcast! I'm thrilled to have Pierre and Pauline joining me today for a lovely conversation about their life in the picturesque village of Saint Rémy de Provence.
I first met Pierre and Pauline when my husband and I relocated to Provence, and they quickly became friends. So it seems only fitting that they're the first guests on this podcast.
Pierre and Pauline are a brother sister team who opened a specialty coffee shop in Saint Remy last June. Their cafe - Colette Cafe, has already drawn a community of people together and I was really excited to talk to them about their story, why they decided to start a cafe, and how the past year has gone. Keep reading for a summary of our conversation…
What is your favourite village in Provence, excluding Saint Rémy de Provence?
Pauline: Eygaliérs.
Pierre: Arles.
What is your favourite Provençal food?
Pauline: A quintessential Provencal dish is the soup of pistou, a hearty soup traditionally enjoyed during the hot summer months. Made with an abundance of seasonal vegetables such as beans, tomatoes, potatoes, and carrots, the soup is served with a garlic and basil sauce, known as pesto, adding a burst of flavor to every spoonful. Pauline emphasized the conviviality surrounding the preparation of pistou, with each Provencal mama boasting her own unique recipe, sparking friendly competitions to determine the best rendition.
Pierre: His favorites revolve around the holy trinity of olive oil, garlic, and anchovies, reflecting the simplicity and freshness of Provencal ingredients. From anchoiade, a dish of fresh vegetables topped with a garlic and anchovy sauce, to pissaladière, a savory pizza featuring onions and anchovies.
What is one thing everyone visiting Saint-Remy should do?
Pauline: After having a flat white at Colette Cafe (of course!), you should first walk around the medieval streets of Saint Rémy. And after you can go to Saint Paul about a ten minutes walk going to the south of Saint Rémy. The cloister is famous because it's the cloister where Van Gogh spent one year there. I go there every year because there are amazing landscapes.
Could you share a bit about your childhood, such as where you lived? Then, I'd love to hear more about your experiences growing up in Provence.
Pauline: I was actually born in Avignon, but my parents were living in Senegal at the time. So we returned to Senegal shortly after my birth and then later traveled to Peru. We spent a few years in Arequipa, a beautiful town known as the White City. We attended a small school there, which had a bit of a French influence, but Spanish was primarily spoken. Moving to Saint Rémy at 8 years old was a significant change for me, and it was quite challenging. It felt like a cultural shock, despite the kindness of the people and the welcoming atmosphere at school. It took me some time to truly feel integrated and find my place there.
Despite the initial difficulties, over time, Saint Rémy became our home base in France. Even as we continued to travel, returning to Central America and exploring the world, Saint Rémy held a special place in our hearts. For me, it became synonymous with home and all its comforts. I love the weather, the bright light, and even the Mistral wind that characterizes the region.
Pierre: For me, it's a similar story. I arrived here when I was five years old, observing everything around me. "Oh, they speak French," I thought. "Okay, I understand French." Like Paul said, we felt very welcomed, but it's a peculiar feeling because we have deep roots here, particularly on my dad's side, with family and cousins residing in the area. So there's this sense of viewing Saint Rémy from a bit of a distance initially, but then realizing our belongingness because of our familial ties.
We have a unique perspective, sort of filters through which we view life. When we come here, we initially see Saint Rémy from an outsider's perspective, but gradually recognize our connection to it through our roots. One significant advantage we had is coming from a farming family. Our first interactions with Provence as children involved picking fruits in the summer and driving tractors by the age of 10 – experiences that forged a deep connection with the land and its traditions.
So, if you were to reflect on your earliest childhood memories in Provence, Pauline being 8 and Pierre 5, are there any other moments that stand out? You've already mentioned picking apples and pears, which undoubtedly shaped your connection to this place and perhaps influenced your decision to raise your own children here. Do you have any other cherished memories from that time?
Pierre: Absolutely, there are plenty of special memories. When you mention this point, the central sun of Provence shines particularly bright throughout the year. Many friends, like us, have returned to Provence after traveling the world or living elsewhere in Europe, especially upon becoming parents, recognizing the region's appeal as an idyllic place to raise a family.
One memory from my childhood revolves around family gatherings on Sundays. These gatherings were filled with endless feasting on countless dishes prepared by Tati colette and others, while my grandma and I played cards. She had a knack for cheating, but we forgave her because, well, I did the same! These moments, steeped in family tradition, left a lasting impression on me. My grandma spoke Provençal, not just French, with her children, which further reinforced our connection to our roots.
As for speaking Provençal, it's a significant part of our heritage due to our father, who is a Provençal writer. Despite the language being considered dead, he has been writing poetry and short stories in Provençal for over three decades. While I can manage a few sentences and understand the language, my brother is more proficient, having spent more time with our father and being deeply interested in preserving our cultural heritage. It's a shame that Provençal isn't as prevalent today as it once was, despite efforts to promote its revival through festivals, museums, and other initiatives.
Are there any special festivals that hold a particular significance for you?
Pierre: I can certainly share some childhood memories that stand out. One tradition that's particularly strong in Provence is the passion for bulls, especially the black Camargue bulls. Many locals have a deep affection for them and often visit the Camargue region to witness the Manades, where these bulls roam freely. It's a unique aspect of Provencal identity, tied to the land and its wild nature.
There are bull races held from April to October, and I recall attending them with fondness, especially the one named in memory of my uncle, Pierre Gon, who was immensely passionate about bulls.
Pauline: As for me, I've always been more drawn to modern festivals and cultural events. The photo festival in Arles and the theater festival in Avignon are two that stand out for me. The Avignon theater festival, in particular, holds a special place in my heart. It's a vibrant celebration of performing arts that I looked forward to attending every year during high school and even later in university.
Could you share a bit about why you decided to open a café in Provence, specifically in Saint-Rémy? Maybe also tell us about the origin of the name and why you decided to do it together?
Pauline: I'll start with the origin of the name, Colette, well, it's about the symbolism behind it. The name embodies femininity, warmth, and intimacy. It's a dedication to our aunt, a lovely person who always welcomed us warmly, making us feel at home wherever we traveled. So, naming the café after her was a tribute to her and all that she represented to us.
Pierre: Yes, Colette is indeed a special name for us, symbolizing love, strength, and a welcoming spirit. As for why we decided to open a café in Provence, it was a bit of a journey. Initially, we were considering opening one in London, where my partner Danielle and I were living at the time. But after some reflection, we realized that returning to our hometown and bringing something new to Saint-Rémy would be more meaningful.
Pauline: Pierre and I have always had a strong connection, discussing various projects over the years. When we returned to Saint-Rémy, the idea of opening a café evolved from initially planning a roastery to finding a suitable location in town. With Pauline's connections and a friend offering a rental space, we explored different options until we found the right place.
Pierre: Yes, it was quite a journey from contemplating an atelier-style café to finding the perfect location in Saint-Rémy. Once we found the space, it was a whirlwind of discussions and negotiations before finally opening on June 13th. Since then, we've been overwhelmed by the support and love from the community.
Pauline: Absolutely. Opening Colette Café has been a labor of love, combining our passion for hospitality with our desire to create a warm and inviting space for people to enjoy. And despite not even being open for a year, the response from locals and tourists alike has been incredible.
Pierre: Indeed, it's been a journey of discovery, both for us and for the community. Introducing specialty coffee to Saint-Rémy has been a unique experience, and while it may not be the traditional way of enjoying coffee in this region, we've been pleasantly surprised by the openness and curiosity of our customers, especially the younger generation.
Pauline: Yes, it's been rewarding to see people embrace new flavors and experiences, whether it's trying a flat white for the first time or simply enjoying a meticulously crafted espresso. And for us, Colette Café is more than just a business—it's a reflection of our values and a tribute to the warmth and hospitality of our beloved aunt.
Pierre: Absolutely. Colette Café is a place where everyone is welcome, where you can feel at home and enjoy a genuine, heartfelt experience. We're grateful for the opportunity to share our passion with the community and look forward to many more years of serving love, coffee, and connection.
And for all those planning a trip to Saint-Rémy this year, I'd love to hear about your ideal day in the region. Could each of you please share what your perfect day in Saint-Rémy would look like?
Pauline: Whether you have a car or not, there are plenty of options for a perfect day here. I'd begin with waking up to the sound of birds and cicadas—those beautiful, buzzing insects that signal a hot day ahead. Then, it's time for a delicious flat white either here at the café or at home with some freshly roasted beans from Colette Café. Next, I'd head to the market to pick up some vibrant produce—olives, tomatoes, and whatever's in season—to enjoy later.
After that, if we have a car, I'd love to take a drive to the seaside, perhaps to the Blue Coast or the Camargue, for some snorkeling and exploring. Back in Saint-Rémy, as the serious business of the day winds down, it's time for the quintessential French tradition—the apéritif. A glass of rosé, some local fish or eggplant on the grill, and watching the sunset with friends—it doesn't get much better than that.
Pierre: Absolutely, Pauline's described a day that's hard to top! For me, it's all about savoring the simple pleasures of Saint-Rémy. Starting the day with a leisurely coffee here at the café, maybe a little stroll in the Alpilles, then diving into the first round of apéritifs around 11 a.m. Lunch is all about fresh, local produce.
After a relaxing siesta under the shade of a tree—a true Provencal tradition—it's time for some fun in the sun. Whether it's swimming, shopping, or being with friends, the afternoon is about enjoying the company and the beautiful surroundings. And of course, no day in Saint-Rémy would be complete without a barbecue and some dancing under the stars.
I hope you enjoyed episode 2 of Take Me to Provence. It was my absolute pleasure to have such an interesting conversation with the lovely brother sister duo of Pierre & Pauline. Make sure to subscribe and be following on all the channels to be the first to know when epiosde 3 drops!
